In addition, unless the cabinet side is finished in an actual wood veneer (most are melamine coated plywood) then in a few months or years, the sides won't match the fronts. Notching molding is pretty difficult to master. It also makes the math easier and gives greater clearance at the walls for the hardware. I usually spec a "starting filler" at 1 1/2", because that's a 3" filler ripped in half and is much easier to accomplish than trying to rip one into 3 1" strips. If you're not scribing to the wall but using scribe molding instead, it's a wash and up to the skill of your installer. Attaching fillers is pretty easy, and scribing a filler to the wall and then attaching it is a lot easier than scribing an extended stile. Otherwise, it really doesn't make much difference. Here is a link that might be useful: thread: ''lower cabinet molding question''Īn extended stile functions as a filler but doesn't have a seam, which is it's biggest design "bonus". There is less chance of them shifting over time as when they are applied and have that 3/8" void underneath them. THe decorative end panels that you ordered should have been applied over skins as well. This is definately something that your KD should have gone over with you before you ordered. Skins are usually about 15% cheaper than flush finished sides, but flush finished sides are easier for DIYers to deal with. Skins are what I order when a pro is doing the install, and he just brad nails them in place and putty fills the tiny holes. I suggest upgrading to "furniture finished plywood ends" in which the cabinet boxes are made of plywood with a wood veneered exterior that is flush with the face frame rather than having that gap that you're dealing with. This is one reason that I usually offer a different option for customers who are DIYing an install. WIthout a skin, the sides will stay the same color, while the wood changes color over time. Cabinet boxes, even if they color match, are usually finished with a vinyl or melamine finish rather than real wood veneered plywood, and the skin not only takes up that gap, but it provides a real wood surface that will age similarly to the actual wood of the face frame and doors. Posted by: live_wire_oak on at 09:44 am in Kitchens ForumĪ skin is not a "decorative" end panel exactly, it is a thin veneered panel that takes up the 3/8" gap from the cabinet box to the face frame and makes the cabinet sides flush. RE: lower cabinet molding question (Follow-Up #8) Here is live_wire's post, and the link to thread below. An experienced installer can take 5K worth of cabinets and make them look lke 50K, while a poor or inexperienced installer can take 50K worth and make it look like 5K. And, you also need an experienced installer to install it. You really need a KD well versed with your cabinet line to help you with your selection. Don't forget the base molding and quarter round, as well as any solid stock you may need in order for your crown to attach properly. Most kitchens I do I order 3 sticks and have some left over, but I have had kitchens need as much as 5 sticks. So there is no "right" amount for fillers, as it will depend on the design.Īs for scribe molding, that also will depend on the design and how many upper and base cabinet you have against the wall. Frameless or full overlay cabinets will all need a bit of filler at the wall at the start of a run, and it may also be needed in other places (like a blind corner cabinet) for proper clearances of other cabinets or appliances. The number of fillers will depend on the style of cabinets and their overall layout.
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